A Koki is a traditional Sindhi breakfast; it is a whole wheat flatbread flavored with onions, cilantro and spices.
They way I look at it – it’s a savory pastry that’s been cooked on the tava (iron pan).
So what makes a good Koki?
- a decent amount of fat in the form of ghee or oil (not olive please; yes I have made the blasphemous error of cooking Indian food in olive oil and I profusely apologize to my fellow foodies for having done that. I now understand that olive oil NOT meant for cooking at high heat)
- Strong upper arm muscles to press down on the Koki to make it brown and crispy
- A mom/mom in law/aunt/any elder person who would like to feed you
My mother-in-law makes the best Kokis in the world. Koki is the standard breakfast on the first Saturday when she visits us. Hot off the stove and in to our plates, the Kokis are just amazing.
The only other time it tastes that great is when one is away from home and someone has lovingly packed a stack of these to munch on in the hotel room.
Why, you ask, when there are fast food restaurants at every airport and lack of availability of food is not really a problem any more.
Well..I think its just genes. We just kinda have it in us now. It's inescapable.
Traveling? Oh well, then we must take kokis.
Back in the day, they were the most practical food item to take along. When people traveled on the road for days, and there were no refrigerators. They supposedly last well for a few days at room temperature, although I always keep mine in the fridge.
While the mode and areas of travel have changed since then, the yearning for a taste of home apparently hasn’t.
So we just kinda do that.
Do we actually need them? That's not the point. We're are Sindhis!
And thus, we make and take kokis with us.
- On planes, trains and automobiles
- to London and to New York, any place we travel
- to our picnics and in our lunch boxes
Alright, alright! I'm exaggerating of course, but seriously the best way to eat a koki?
- With plain yogurt topped with rock salt and pepper
- With muraba / any kind of pickle
- With a pat of butter on one that’s just arrived on your plate hot off the stove
- With a cup of hot Sweet Chai
- Hummus (odd combination, but that’s what you do when you are a Sindhi from Dubai)
- And don't forget the papad!
Alright let’s get kokin' ...tee hee , sorry couldn't resist.
Ingredients
- 2 cup of whole wheat atta flour (available in Indian stores)
- ¼ cup or more of ghee/ vegetable oil
- 2 small onions
- 2 thai green chilies
- ¼ cup of cilantro leaves washed and trimmed
- 1 tablespoons anardana (dried pomegranate seeds)
- 1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds lightly crushed (put them in a sandwich bag and use a rolling pin)
- Salt to taste
- ½ teaspoon of ajwain (bishop’s weed)- optional
- Ghee/Oil to fry
Method
Place the onion, cilantro and chilies in a food processor and process till chopped. (It should not be finely minced).
Place the flour and salt in a bowl. Add the ghee and with your fingers, cut it in to the flour (just like a pastry). This is called the ‘mon” in the Sindhi and is what makes the koki crispy.
Add the coriander seeds, pomegranate seeds and the onion mixture and knead lightly to form a dough. Add a little water if you need to. The onion does leave water so it can make the dough soggy if you leave it too long. Let it rest 5 minutes and then bring the dough together.
Heat up a tava to medium heat.
Make a medium size ball and roll it out using oil or extra flour on the surface if necessary.
Make light indentations on the rolled out koki and place on the tava. Cook on each side, flipping every 20 -30 seconds. Spread a teaspoon of oil/ghee on the top side and flip. Press down with metal flipper (what is it really called??) with all the strength you can muster. This will result in a crispy brown crust.
Serve hot with any of the above mentioned suggestions.
Quick edit- Rahman just won an oscar! Woohoo- Jai Ho!

23 comments:
This sounds a little like pyaj paratha ... but I think the addition of anardana makes it different. Your koki looks crisp. :-)
What acute write up! Love how you've explained it.
I've had these at my sindhi friend's house, and always loved it!! I'm definitely giving it a shot for breakfast this week. Thanks for sharing:)) and wooohoo for Rehman his acceptance speech was so sweet and he was sooo shy!!
Hi,
Can you explain why to not cook with Olive oil?
I've been using it for indian cooking for a while...:(
Hey Anonymous
I’m not an expert on the subject, but as per my understanding and research unrefined olive oil has a lower smoke point as opposed to ghee (which has been traditionally used in Indian cooking) which has a high smoke point. What it basically means is that an extra virgin olive oil should not be heated or else it loses its benefits and even turns toxic; a fat like ghee can go up to a higher temperature safely without burning. I use EVOO in my salads or to top off hummus. I use regular olive oil in any Italian sauce to fry up garlic or onions, but I do it at low to medium heat. Because Indian food is cooked at high heat most of the times (like tadkas), it’s best to avoid olive oil and go for oils that don’t burn easily. Ghee seems a bit heavy for day to day cooking and so I usually use untoasted sesame oil in my Asian and Indian cooking. If anyone else has a better suggestion for everyday use cooking oil, I’m all ears.
Another thing about olive oil; a lot of people buy pomace oil ‘cause it’s cheap. If you see that word on your olive oil can or bottle, just throw it. It’s the last oil that has been chemically extracted from the olive pits and is barely seen as fit for human consumption. Read more about it on wikipedia under Retail grades, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olive_oil.
Sonu your 'koki' looks as good as mummy's
Good going !!
Savi: Thanks, but looks are deceiving! It doesn't taste the same :-(
This looks great! I had koki courtesy Alka when we met up, and am a fan
I've started using Enova oil for cooking these days. I read that it's good. I have heard about koki a lot in the food blogosphere but have not tried it.
Very lovely narration Bharti. I think kokis are like idlis/tamarind rice for south indians. We take it anywhere and everywhere.
Is it my computer or there is some error in the ingredients list, some coding shows up.
So wonderful! Love the spices in there, great for picnics too. Good one, I will give it a try, love the name Koki too! :))
Made it and loved it! the first 2 got too brown because I forgot to flip them at the appropriate time, but the rest were delightlfully crisp and yummy!
Do you have a recipe for sai bhaji? I desperately wanted to make it..and get an authentic recipe. Please post if you do!
I use olive oil for a quick stir fry.... but I use conola oil for almost anything else...
I make my kokis without as much 'Mon' though... cos I am trying to get away from ghee/oil completely, The pictures look awesome though... making me really hungry for some koki
Simran: Thanks!
Madhu: You're right of course, you take the idlis/tamarind rice, the gujjus take their theplas and we take kokis! Thanks for pointing out the mistake, I just fixed it.
Asha: Thanks for visiting. Glad you like it.
Ranjani: Thanks for trying it dear. Glad to hear they came out well for you. I'll try to post saibhaji soon for sure.
Meena: Thanks for your visit. Yeah, I don't put as much mom in my kokis usually, but once in a while I like to taste it the way it's supposed to be.
Koki looks like a delicious variation of paratha,lot flavorful.The pom. seeds must give it a tangy bite.
True ,olive oil is best when uncooked.Definitely not for Indian fried food.
Koki sounds like the crisper cousin of parathas and since I love parathas I am sure this is something I would love as well...About Olive oil I heard recently too that it should not be heated too much so I have switched to using sesame oil and corn oil depending on the dish !
btw..excellent description of sindhis & kokis...
It is not in the genes, Bharti!! I love koki and when I travel I carry lots of them:) Maybe 'No one can eat just one!" I am longing for it right now!! Will make them tomorrow for breakfast:) Yours looks as crisp as they come!!
I too do not use olive oil in Indian cooking but because I reserve it for salads and Italian and because it is expensive!!
kinda like a gujju thepla, eh? i've eaten a two-month old thepla. no kidding. and it tasted awesome.
planning to make these for a picnic, which some vegan friends will be attending. Which oil do u recommend i use instead of ghee, and what's the best way to pack them so they stay good for 4 to 5 hours? Thanks B:)
These do look GOOD!
Sunshine Mom: So you burst my bubble! I guess it's not about the genes then.
Bee: Yup, same concept as the thepla.
Rashmi: Any flavorless vegetable cooking oil (corn, canola etc.) will do. These are meant to last a couple of days at room temp. and don't usually go bad in a few hours. I would just wrap them in aluminum foil or put them in a container. If you are really concerned, then maybe carry an ice pack along to keep them cool. Have fun at picnic!
this is a new recipe for me, will try it
I never tried this dish, but I really think I'll like when I'll do.
love this post bharti, so true, everytime we travel back home from moms, its just 1.5 hrs she still makes koki and even if we have just eaten lunch before leaving, within 30 minutes my husband will ask for the koki. but it tastes great like u said when someone else makes it, like ur mom.
koki looks very delicious
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